I love a holiday buffet: I love to graze, and Texans do a buffet right. Everyone on my Dad's side of the family would bring something. There would be giant platters of crudité, every kind of buttery rich cracker imaginable, my aunt Kay's famous crab dip, and smoked venison my aunt Sue would bring from a deer she shot earlier in the season. And, of course, queso—because it is Texas after all. But there was always another dish on the table, one that I often shied away from as a kid: a white orb of creamy cheese, rolled in pecans or walnuts that my aunt usually stored in the freezer, which gave them a strange chemical taste.