Dickson Wright and her co-star Jennifer Paterson (who died in 1999 at the age of 71) were the self-proclaimed Two Fat Ladies, the motorcycle-cruising, sass-talking, pork-loving, globe-trotting romanticists who starred in a British cooking show from 1996 to 1999. Their menus were half extremely appetizing, half Frankenfood (egg mousse aspic and tomato-smothered cod, anyone?). Their cooking advice, frequently questionable (entire dishes without a lick of salt). Their food styling more ‘70s nightmare than late ‘90s British mod (so. many. molds). But I’ve found myself re-watching a lot of Two Fat Ladies recently, even at a time when food TV has supposedly never been better, because for all its shortcomings, it remains the most compelling food show of the last 20 years.