Coupling the word “best” with the word “pizza” marks a serious commitment in any city, but even more so in New Haven. Pizzerias there, like Frank Pepe, Modern, and Sally's, date to the 1920s and 1930s and are revered as pilgrimage sites. Known for their mostly coal-fired ovens and inimitable crusts (neither fully cracker-like nor bread-like, but a perfect hybrid of the two), these institutions are a mecca for mozzarella, or, as the locals say, “mootz.” So the existence of another power pizza player in town—a relatively unknown contender, staffed by students on the campus of an Ivy League university—sounded far-fetched, but entirely appealing. On the one hand, Holloway may have been simply stumping for his school. On the other, he seemed to really mean it, recognizing that pizza offers its own category of scholarship and that superlatives must be backed by rigorous research. Dialectic aside, only one response felt appropriate: an immediate visit.