Lobster Ravioli in Light Coral Cream
The lobster pieces are not tightly wrapped as they would be in ravioli, but loosely swathed in wonton skins.
1 live 1 1/2-lb. female Maine lobster
8 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 small yellow onions, peeled and finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled, trimmed, and finely chopped
1 small branch fresh tarragon
1/4 cup cognac
3 tbsp. tomato paste
5 cups rich fish stock
1/4 cup heavy cream
12 wonton skins
1. Fill a medium pot with water to a depth of 1'' and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add lobster, cover, and cook until just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Drain. When lobster is cool enough to handle, remove coral (roe) from body cavity, and meat from tail and claws, working over a bowl to catch any juices. Chop shells into pieces and add to juices, then set bowl aside. Cut lobster meat into 1'' pieces. Transfer meat and coral to 2 separate bowls, cover, and refrigerate.
2. Melt 2 tbsp. of the butter with the oil in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add reserved shells and juices and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add onions, carrots, and tarragon and cook, stirring often, until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add cognac and carefully ignite with a kitchen match. When flame dies out, stir in tomato paste, add fish stock, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain sauce through a sturdy sieve into a medium saucepan, pressing on solids with the back of a spoon. Set pan over medium heat and reduce sauce to 1/2 cup, about 45 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add cream, and simmer for 2 minutes. Strain sauce into a clean saucepan and whisk in remaining 6 tbsp. butter, 1 small piece at a time. Whisk in reserved coral. Keep sauce warm over very low heat.
3. Bring a small pot of water to a simmer over medium heat. Add wonton skins a few at a time, cooking just until they turn supple, white, and translucent, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a bowl of cold water as done, then pat dry on paper towels. Lay 1 wonton skin on a lightly greased heat-proof plate, arrange a few pieces of lobster on one half of it, then fold over to drape loosely. Repeat with remaining wonton skins and lobster.
4. Cover ravioli with plastic wrap. Set plate on a rack over a pan of simmering water, cover, and steam until heated through, about 5 minutes. Divide ravioli between 4 plates and drizzle with coral cream.