Suckling lamb, abbacchio in Italian, has been the object of what might be called a Roman culinary cult for millennia. Even Juvenal sang the praises of "the tenderest of the flock, with more milk than blood, that has not lost its virginity by eating grass." Ideally, the abbachio should be between 30 and 60 days old, and have lost most of its baby fat without becoming tough. There is no set weight for abbachio; it depends on the breed, and can range from about 12 pounds to 16 or 17. All breeds of lamb are good, but for Easter, some prefer the abbacchio romanesco, raised on ancient pastureland near Rome.