Drive on Pulaski Highway out beyond the city limits, past a lunar landscape of flea markets and cheap motels, and you'll be bombarded by stall after stall proffering the stuff. How does it taste? Imagine the smoky succulence of Texas barbecued beef on a New York-style kaiser roll or a slice of rye; it's barbecue with a combination North-South identity. And no one does it better than Schafer, whose cheery slogan—WE PUT MORE BEEF BETWEEN THE BUNS—pretty much says it all. "It's really all about the smell," he told us. "You know—the grease hitting the coals. When you drive by, you just have to pull over."