Fōnuts, a baked-donut specialist in Los Angeles, is helping donuts shed their unhealthy image with vegan and gluten-free options, in trendy flavors such as salted caramel and strawberry-buttermilk. Around the time that Isreal started out, donuts were also appearing at some of America's finest restaurants. In 1994 the chef-restaurateur Thomas Keller paired warm cinnamon-sugar brioche fritters with a cappuccino semifreddo in his now-iconic "coffee and donuts" dessert at the French Laundry in Yountville, California. In New York City, composed desserts such as pastry chef Jacques Torres' cream-filled bomboloni at Le Cirque 2000, and pastry chef Karen Demasco's buttermilk donuts with assorted dipping sauces at Craft, expanded on the notion that this is a comfort food worth elevating. Donuts have even attracted the avant garde treatment. At the experimental restaurant Moto in Chicago, former pastry chef Ben Roche made a soup by pureeing glazed donuts. Unlike chain stores, which make their donuts from a mix, these restaurants and new wave shops make theirs from scratch, which, as it turns out, is not so newfangled at all.