The mustard's near-opposite, the sweet steak relish from Pacific Dining Car is just as versatile. "People tell me, 'Don't bring butter for the bread; just the relish,' " says Nicholas Lerner, general manager of the 24-hour restaurant housed in a vintage train car. "I've even seen people eat it on eggs." Though it's no longer made on the premises, the tomato-based relish, studded with diced celery and peppers, sweetened with brown sugar, and spiced with cloves, is as tangy as when Grace "Lovey" Idol, great-grandmother of the current owner, first mixed a batch in the 1920s. Few things taste better on an aged filet; on a burger, it trumps ketchup. I use it to jazz up meat loaf and Swiss steak, too, and add some to my pot roast as it cooks. I've also spooned the relish into my bloody marys, where its sweetness balances the drink's spiciness. And, as with Philippe's mustard, every time I taste it, I'm reminded of the generations of restaurateurs who have made LA such a fine town to eat in. The mustard costs $4.75; visit www.philippes.com or call 213/628-3781. The steak relish costs $5.50; call 213/483-6000.