But sandwiches are, by nature, fun. Eventually, recipes loosened up and encouraged homemakers to riff on the form. In the 1920s, when people could easily get their hands on tight-grained, soft-crumbed commercial sandwich bread, cookbooks and brochures published by bread and flour companies offered instructions for making whimsical party sandwiches, like the ones my mother's cookie cutters were used for. The fillings were mostly convenience foods, like tinned fruits, meats, and vegetables, mixed with store-bought mayonnaise or cream cheese to form sweet and savory spreads. There were sandwich rolls, sandwich checkerboards, and sandwich loaves—whole bread loaves sliced longitudinally and spread with different fillings, then cut into colorful cross-sections. I chuckled at the sheer ambition of one recipe in Wonder bread's 1930 pamphlet Wonder Sandwich Suggestions by Alice Adams Proctor: a five-layer Tower of Pisa Sandwich, which contained, from the top down: anchovies and olives, lobster, chicken, Hawaiian salad (pineapple, candied ginger, and lettuce), and for dessert, at the bottom, cream cheese and strawberries. Proctor does not, unfortunately, offer suggestions for how this sandwich is to be consumed.