You've gotta try redfish on the half shell," my friend Drew Curren, a chef in Austin and an avid fisherman, told me over the phone one day when I mentioned that SAVEUR was doing a special Texas issue. I knew that redfish, also known as red drum, was a favorite on Southern tables, but the "half shell" part confused me. When he was a teenager, Drew said by way of explanation, he used to tag along with old salts on daylong fishing excursions in the bays and inlets of the Gulf Coast. "For dinner, these guys basically cut off a side of the fish, put it skin side down on the grill without even scaling it, and doused it in butter; by the time they set the table, the fish was done. It's that easy." The "half shell" was simply the fish's crisp, charred, scales-on skin.