Mezedes can range from humble to fancy. The simplest—oil-cured olives, feta sprinkled with oregano, pickled peppers—are known as pikilia, which means "assortment," and they usually arrive free of charge with any order of spirits, wine, or beer. Some mezedes are regional (like the mussels from Thessaloniki), while others are seasonal (like the fava beans and chickpeas you'll see diners shelling at their tables in spring). Then there are the classics you'll find always and everywhere: grilled octopus; garlicky dips served with bread; the rice-and-herb-filled grape leaves called dolmades; cheese-and-tomato-laden baked dishes called saganaki; and the ubiquitous tiny meatballs known as keftedes. By convention, one starts with the cold vegetables, spreads, and pickles, continues on to cold seafood, and finishes with the fried and warm foods. Whoever has "the quickest fork," as the saying goes, succeeds in tasting them all.