At cookouts, or asados, all across Argentina, whether in the casual restaurants called parrillas or in private backyards, the ritual is the same. Holding your plate, you stroll over to the grill and just take in the sight—and smoky, rich scent—of meats sizzling: all kinds of meats, from chubby chorizos (spicy sausages), splitting with juice, to crisp sweetbreads, to whole hunks of golden tenderloin. You tell the grill man, the parrillero, which you'd like to try. He serves you a few choice chunks and slices—but not too many; the point is to eat a few hot bits at a time, then go back, and back, and back for more. There's even a saying for this gustatory dance: ''Asado es un viaje de ida y vuelta''—''Asado is a journey of going and coming.''