When you’re served al pastor in Mexico, a curry in Pakistan, or a tagine in Morocco, chances are it’s made with goat. Now U.S. chefs are opening our eyes to this flavorful meat—leaner than beef, with sweet-salty notes of grass and earth. Stephanie lzard, of Chicago’s aptly named Girl & the Goat, serves it smoked, confited, as carpaccio, in chorizo and rillettes, and as a mousse. And at San Francisco’s Flour + Water, Thomas McNaughton sauces cappellacci dei briganti pasta with a tomatoey ragu loaded with slow-braised goat shoulder (pictured).

See the recipe for Spinach Cappellacci with Goat Ragu and Broccoli Rabe »