See the Recipe. Todd Coleman

Your butcher can grind the goat shoulder for this luscious ragu, which was adapted from a recipe by chef Thomas McNaughton of San Francisco’s Flour + Water restaurant. Cappellacci, which means “little hats,” are conical pasta; you can substitute any top-quality fresh spinach pasta if necessary. If you don’t have goat available, lamb is a fine substitute. This recipe first appeared in the 2012 SAVEUR 100, with the article Goat.

Spinach Cappellacci with Goat Ragù and Broccoli Rabe Spinach Cappellacci with Goat Ragù and Broccoli Rabe
Your butcher can grind the goat shoulder for this luscious ragù, which was adapted from a recipe by chef Thomas McNaughton of San Francisco's Flour + Water restaurant.
Yield: serves 8


  • 1 (10-oz.) package frozen spinach, thawed
  • 14 egg yolks
  • 2 cups flour, plus more for dusting
  • 12 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste


  • 6 tbsp. olive oil
  • 12 oz. ground goat shoulder
  • 14 cup finely chopped carrot
  • 14 cup finely chopped celery
  • 14 cup finely chopped yellow onion
  • 1 12 tsp. tomato paste
  • 34 cup red wine
  • 1 cup whole peeled canned tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • 1 12 tsp. finely chopped thyme leaves
  • 1 12 tsp. finely chopped rosemary leaves
  • 14 tsp. crushed red chile flakes
  • 14 tsp. ground cumin
  • 14 tsp. ground coriander
  • 14 tsp. ground fennel
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 12 cup finely shredded broccoli rabe leaves
  • 1 tbsp. unsalted butter
  • Freshly grated Parmesan, to garnish


  1. Make the cappellacci: Squeeze spinach dry in paper towels and process with yolks in a food processor until smooth. Add flour and ½ tsp. salt; process until dough forms a ball around the blade. Transfer to a work surface and knead until smooth, about 8 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Unwrap and quarter dough; cover all but 1 piece with plastic wrap. Using your hands, flatten the piece of dough into a rectangle. Pass dough through widest setting of a hand-cranked pasta roller. Fold dough into thirds to create another rectangle; pass dough through widest setting again, feeding open edge first; repeat folding and rolling twice. Decrease setting one notch; roll pasta through to make a thinner pasta sheet. Lower setting again; repeat through each setting until very thin, about 116″. Transfer sheet to a floured work surface; repeat above steps with remaining dough pieces. Using a 2″ round cutter, cut out disks of dough. Place a pastry tip over the tip of your index finger; wrap a disk around tip to form a cone, pressing edges to seal. Gently lift lip of the cone, opposite the seam, up and back to resemble the brim of a hat; transfer cappellacci to a baking sheet dusted with flour to dry. Repeat with remaining disks.
  2. Make the ragù: Heat oil in a 4-qt. saucepan over high heat. Add goat; cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Add carrot, celery, and onion; cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste; cook until lightly caramelized, about 1 minute. Add wine; cook, scraping bottom of pan, until evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add tomatoes, stock, thyme, rosemary, ¼ tsp. chile flakes, cumin, coriander, fennel, bay leaf, and pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until almost all liquid evaporates, about 45 minutes.
  3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add cappellacci; cook until al dente, about 3 minutes. Drain and add to ragù, along with remaining chile flakes and broccoli rabe and butter; season with salt and pepper. Toss until pasta is evenly coated in sauce. Divide pasta and sauce among 8 serving bowls; garnish liberally with Parmesan.