If you're not careful, a drive through southeast LA with the chefs Jaime Martin Del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu quickly becomes a botanical expedition, a survey of hidden sugarcane and cornstalks, of trees bearing tejocotes, or Mexican crab apples. "This guy has the best chayote," says Jaime, referring to the variety of squash, as he parks in front of a modest, Colonial-style house. "And avocado leaves, too." The two men, old friends from the Mexican state of Jalisco who opened the restaurant La Casita Mexicana 11 years ago in the town of Bell, just southeast of the city, are well known in these parts for their locally inspired cuisine. Their traditional chiles rellenos and moles are made with Mexican herbs and vegetables grown by local gardeners, and one of their signature drinks is an agua fresca made with tiny Mexican limes from a tree in Arvizu's mother's backyard. The two are easy to pick out in a crowd: with their bald heads, big mustaches, and perma-grins, they're a familiar morning talk show presence on the Spanish-language television station Univision, where their cooking segments on the program Despierta America spread the gospel of Mexican LA's homegrown foods.