Many of the stalls don't have names, including my favorite, run by Gilberto Ramirez—a round-faced, fast-talking, hospitable man who beams when you compliment his food—and his wife, Maria Landa, who's quiet, neat, and has an easy, confident smile. Both are from Guerrero. Their stand is a large, tented affair with an army of cooks pressing out thick eight-inch corn tortillas on big round griddles. Their quesadillas, made with these fabulously fresh tortillas, are great. In addition to cheese, you can have them with stewed mushrooms or grilled steak, and a topknot of cilantro, lettuce, and tomatoes. The molcajetes, or stone mortars, on the counter hold one of the best table salsas in the market—made with tomatillos, garlic, lots of green chiles, and cilantro. The most distinctive dish here, though, is Señora Maria's zesty tomatillo sauce over tender braised tongue.