Farmhouse cheese making isn't new to County Cork. In an essay on Irish cheeses published in 1937, the poet and politician Oliver St. John Gogarty mentions a number of cheese-producing dairies in the region, among them Ardagh and Mitchelstown ("greatest of all"). "The story goes," he adds, "that when application was made to Denmark for an instructor to teach the Irish the art of butter and cheese production and preservation, the Danish authorities apologised for being unable to lend their best expert 'because he had just gone back to Cork'!" The diversion of milk to make standardized cheddars and the like during World War II effectively wiped out the production of unique local cheeses. Then along came Norman Steele, an English-born professor of philosophy at Trinity College, Dublin, and his wife, Veronica, a native Dubliner. In 1976, the Steeles, who were living on a farm in Eyeries, a hamlet on West Cork's rugged Beara Peninsula, found themselves with, as Norman puts it, "a one-horned cow named Brisket and too much milk." The idea of making cheese occurred to them. "We got all the leaflets," says Norman. "We also found a book called The Cheeses and Wines of England and France with Notes on Irish Whiskey by a man named John Ehle. The leaflets told you how to make cheese, but Ehle told you what cheese was."