Holbrook's story is similar to ones you'll hear in many industrialized parts of the world where people are embracing older, more hands-on ways of raising and producing food. Until the late 1970s, Holbrook was a curator at the Holburne Museum of Art in Bath; then she quit her job and took over a small farm that had been in her husband's family for years. "I started out with two goats," she says, "and I learned to make soft cheeses from their milk by reading books." She traveled to France to learn more and later became inspired by other European cheese-making traditions as well. Around the same time, Neal's Yard Dairy, the famous cheesemonger's shop in London, was beginning to sell cheeses made by hand on small farms like Mary's throughout the British Isles. England may be best known for its traditional cows' milk cheeses like cheddar and Cheshire, but Mary's cheeses helped to pave the way for an English cheese-making renaissance that introduced new goats' milk varieties like the creamy Ticklemore, made in Devon, as well as sheep's milk cheeses like the mild, nutty Spenwood from Berkshire. A number of traditional English cow's milk styles were rescued from extinction, too. Holbrooke's cheeses have long been popular at Neal's Yard Dairy, but when the UK's first farmers' market opened in Bath in 1997, Mary started selling there as well.