Flabby's 1101 Lydia Street (502/637-9136; www.flabbys.com) I've long held the theory that the hospitality of a place can be measured by the number of condiments found on its tables. It certainly holds true in the case of Flabby's, a cozy tavern that's served Schnitzelburg for some 57 years. When I visited, on a Thursday afternoon, the bartender greeted just about everyone by name, and each table held its own stockpile of jumbo-size squeeze bottles containing hot sauce, barbecue sauce, ketchup, and two types of mustard. Sunlight streamed in through the front windows to reveal a polished green linoleum floor, a well-worn wooden bar, and a caribou head mounted high on one wall. The setting was certainly agreeable—the platonic ideal of a neighborhood bar, I'd even argue—but I was really there for one thing: the Flabby's famous fried chicken livers. When they arrived, piled high in a plastic basket, I took a bite, and the crisp, salty exterior and velvety interior held each other in perfect balance. (Though they required no adornment, it was nevertheless reassuring to know that any condiment I might desire stood at the ready.) Other signature dishes at Flabby's include a variety of pork schnitzels and German wursts, as well as a pungent limburger cheese sandwich. I was especially taken with a side order of warm, meltingly luscious German potato salad. Flabby's is owned by the same family that used to run Mazzoni's, another local institution and the birthplace of the singular-to-Louisville bar snack known as the rolled oyster, a fist-size cluster of mollusks cloaked in cracker meal and deep-fried. Sadly, Mazzoni's closed last fall after a run of nearly 125 years, but the rolled oyster remains a fixture on the menu at Flabby's and a number of other Louisville bars.