The Jurados maintain a big part of their connection to Mexico through cooking. For lunch they are making salpicon, a salad of shredded meat eaten throughout Mexico, Central America, and parts of South America. In some places it's made with chicken; in others, with fish. In El Paso and Chihuahua, it features beef brisket lightly dressed with lime and chipotle. "You have to do it with your fingers," Luz says, separating bits of brisket into a delicate hash, "to make sure the texture is right." It's a recipe passed down from David and Henry's mother, Estela Jurado, who was, in her day, a renowned cook in El Paso. When Estela's children were young, her formidable skills were much in demand for church functions. "Her cochinita pibil…," Henry says, closing his eyes and savoring the memory of the slow-roasted suckling pig his mother prepared on special occasions. In the late 1950s, Estela started a catering business; then, in 1972, she rented a storefront downtown and opened Casa Jurado. The family has been running the restaurant, now an El Paso institution, ever since.