As one of the best preserved medieval towns in Italy, with a walled, pedestrian-only center, San Gigmignano is teeming with the tour bus set—they all must have come to score some saffron, I think. Not exactly. At La Pecora Nera, which specializes in pecorino rounds and finnochiona sausage, I venture, "Inglese?" and the friendly shopkeep says she knows a little. "I'm looking for lo zafferano," I announce, trotting out the Italian term I've just learned. She tells me she has some, in a one-gram jar that costs 35 euros. (Did I mention saffron happens to be the world's most expensive spice?) Perhaps reading the look on my face, she says I can find a smaller package up the street.