When I call Stewart Lester to ask if I can photograph him out fishing, he says, "Just be at Brent's in Amagansett any morning at 6 a.m. I've got a red pickup. You'll smell it before you see it." The next day, at six straight up, a truck towing a sharpie—a 16-foot wooden work boat—pulls up at Brent's General Store. Stewart and his son, Ted, head for the coffeepot, and are out the door before I even get to introduce myself. I follow the trucks to their mooring, off the boat ramp at Lazy Point in Napeague, and make contact. Stewart climbs into his 24-footer; Ted fires up his 17-footer. I join Ted and we head out into Gardiners Bay. The men are not happy. The wind is up; four-foot swells splash over the bow, soaking us. "I'm not sure we'll be able to get into the nets," Stewart worries.