The real Easter frenzy begins on Saturday with the mageritsa, a traditional soup made out of the scraps of the meat for Sunday's roast. "Dad is the soup-maker," explains Charlie Vergiris, a Greek transplant living in Queens. "But," he adds, "Mom does all the cleaning," meaning the innards—liver, sweetbreads, heart, and intestines—featured in the soup. The intestines, so that they stay together during cooking, must be tightly braided, a task which is, for Evagelia ("Evelyn") Vergiris, Charlie's mother, less time-consuming than the cleaning itself. Her husband, Paraskevas Vergiris, meanwhile, oversees the chopping, and together they make two types of mageritsa: a tomatoey stew typical of that made in Dafni, the village south of Sparta that the Vergiris family emigrated from, and the more common, soupier version, in which the innards are chopped.