We have dinner on a spring evening at the home of Peter and Mary Ward, owners of Country Choice, a small but influential grocery shop and cafe in Nenagh, in County Tipperary. Joining us are Nancy Byrne and her daughter Anne Gernon, who run Brocka on the Water, a good restaurant near Ballinderry. The meal is built around a baby Suffolk lamb raised by Peter's brother. We begin with slices of the sweet liver (a favorite meat in Ireland) cooked with whiskey and cream, then make quick work of the tiny roasted leg, well done but juicy. On the side, there is simple sauteed spinach; fat, mild local asparagus ("One day, a lady came in the store," Peter says, laughing, "and asked why the farmer couldn't grow the asparagus all the same length so it would be easier to cook!"); and colcannon, the ubiquitous Irish specialty of potatoes mashed with greens—which Mary has made with a whole handful of greens plucked from the garden. Because it is springtime, rhubarb season, we finish with a rhubarb crumble, flavored with lemon verbena, and a kind of rhubarb upside-down cake with local organic vanilla ice cream—the cake brought by Byrne and Gernon. This is unpretentious Irish home cooking of the highest order—pure pleasure.