At the Agriturismo de Carvalho in Manzano, about ten miles east of Udine in the far northeastern Italian region of Friuli, lunch is served in the backyard of a 17th-century villa. From the terrace, we can see the entire property, bordered by small clumps of cypress trees. A huge Tuscan sheepdog, barking frequently at first but increasingly tranquil as the sun heats up the cobblestones, is tied to an ornate well in the center of the villa's courtyard. Around noon, people start appearing, walking past the dog, up towards the terrace, the women's high heels wobbling on the stones as their children gallop off to explore the property. The cook, Ennio Furlan, has spent the morning preparing the country food his customers expect: gnocchi made from potatoes and rucola, risotto with porcini mushrooms, roasted guinea fowl, sausages cooked in wine, and a splendid gubane, a panettone-like confection that locals like to drench in grappa—all washed down with tocai, verduzzo, and merlot from the estate.