Michael Psilakis is no burger purist. Like many chefs, he embraced the burger and then blew it apart, using its familiar form as a canvas for creating something new. The version he serves at Anthos, his Greek restaurant in New York City, is a brilliant reinvention. It's made with lamb, not beef, and a slew of spices and vegetables, including coriander, dill, clove, cumin, grilled onion, and garlic, which are worked right into the ground meat. There are some smart, chef-y touches that you might not even recognize as you devour the thing: because lamb is lean, the chef adds some ground pork and wraps the patty in caul fat, which accounts for its incomparable flavor and juiciness. It's topped with a lemony feta, olive, and sun-dried tomato salad. The whole thing is exuberant, deeply satisfying, and a bit renegade.