Sadly, when I arrive, Paul is in the States. I phone him in Atlanta, to wish him well. We speak of old times, of the Tangier I used to know. "Yes, it's different," he agrees, with his usual courteous melancholy. "But then everything is these days, isn't it?" Paul, so gaunt and wry, has long been a key figure in the expatriate English-speaking literary community of Tangier. Others, at various times, have included William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, Gregory Corso, Alan Sillitoe, and the avant-garde writer Brion Gysin—who was also briefly a restaurateur: He opened a place called The Thousand and One Nights, but disgruntled Moroccan workmen put a djinn—a spirit—in the bathroom, and cursed the place until it closed.