Started in 1946 by one Tommy Koulax, the son of Greek immigrants, Tommy's was built for American car culture: the dining area is a narrow ledge of wood that snakes around the parking lot and encircles a service window. There you'll be asked chili or not. You answer, of course, in the affirmative and are presented with a thing of beauty, temptation itself enclosed in yellow waxed paper. You unwrap the burger halfway, to keep it from spilling. You bite into it: first the pillowy bun, then the tangy-sweet chili, and finally the beef. Pure satisfaction.