Where to Stay
Grand Park Kunming
20 Hong Hua Qiao, Kunming (86/871/538-6688; parkhotelgroup.com). $212 double.
This modern hotel has 300 well-appointed rooms, many of them with spectacular views of the city and surrounding mountains.
1 Duan Jia Deng Village, Shaxi (86/135/7785-1712). $23 double.
Set in a small farming village, this guesthouse provides a glimpse of rural life in southwestern China. Owner Wu Yunxin speaks fluent English and is a savvy guide; his wife, Duan Jan Pin, prepares delicious regional dishes.
Sideng Street, Shaxi Old Town (86/872/472-2666). $67 double.
This beautifully restored inn was once a stop for traders traveling on horseback between Tibet and China. Proprietor Hwang Eufung and chef Yang Jing provide top-notch meals made with ingredients from the nearby Friday market, a dazzling weekly spread of local foods that is absolutely worth a visit.
Where to Eat
1910 South Railway Station
8 Houxin Jie, Kunming (86/871/316-9486).
Sample dishes featuring Yunnan's famous mushrooms, such as pungent ganba fried with red chile.
Shan Jian Ling Xiang Jun Zhuyuan
9 Guangping Road, Guangshan, Kunming (86/871/715-9455).
One of Kunming's oldest mushroom hot pot restaurants and a wonderful place to experience this ritual, in which foraged fungi are cooked at the table in a rich mushroom broth.