Anna Kozma is one of the new breeds of chimney cake bakers. She grew up in Harghita County, a predominantly Hungarian town in eastern Transylvania, baking chimney cakes with her grandmother. She immigrated to New York in 2002, and nine years later opened the city's first-ever bakery dedicated to kurtőskalacs, calling it, appropriately, Chimney Cake NYC Bakery. In her modest Long Island City storefront, Kozma makes everything by hand, in an open kitchen in plain view, introducing a whole new population to the pleasures of these tubular treats. She makes an old-fashioned sugar-dusted version, of course, but her menu also includes variations from cinnamon to crushed walnuts to chocolate shavings, and even cakes with savory fillings like ham and cheese.