I also got to feed a lot of people. Recipe testing is an excellent excuse for a dinner party, particularly because if something doesn’t work out, you can put the blame on someone else. Throughout the summer and fall, I fed my friends Hasselback Potatoes with Lardo, Pot-Roasted Cauliflower, Eggplant Caponata, Jansson’s Temptation, Greek Salad, and a handful more that have blurred together in the compost of my memory. I made myself fried ramps with eggs one night, alone and barefoot in my kitchen, and cackled at the amount of fat I was using, the ramp leaves ballooning up like glossy chicharrones in oil and butter, the eggs’ edges spitting and turning into lace. I piled it all atop the fancy bread that I had bought myself, sat on my couch, and beamed.