Joyce chose a breed called cou nu, or "naked neck," a tall, lean-breasted bird with an eponymous bald spot. He named his Carolina-raised variety Poulet Rouge for its rust-colored feathers and adopted French methods for raising it. At Joyce Farms, his cou nu live for 80 days, nearly twice as long as commodity chickens, which are bred for quick turnaround. Roomy indoor-outdoor digs allow them to exercise their muscles as they mature, metabolizing their fat, resulting in luscious, slightly gamey meat that is prized by chefs like Gavin Kaysen of Manhattan's Café Boulud. He loves the Poulet Rouge's thin, taut skin, which "cooks up crisp and firm, almost like pork belly."