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All across India, fiery hot curries and dals are served with a cooling side of raita, a mixture of yogurt and vegetables that is often seasoned with spice-infused oil and fresh herbs. Prepared with seasonal vegetables, fresh raita might include grated carrots and cucumbers one day, chopped ripe tomatoes and chickpeas the next. What doesn’t change is raita’s wonderful versatility: The mix can be served as relish, dip, salad, or side.

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