Modern Snack Bar

Landon Nordeman

Its mid-century signage—a neon whoosh wrapping its name and pointing at a humble clapboard house—is a nostalgic reminder of classic roadside diners, the inside true Americana. But the Modern Snack Bar is even better than it looks. This 54-year-old family-run diner on Long Island, New York's agrarian North Fork is open in summer and fall only. Locals and seasonal visitors come to this adored hangout for its culinary riches: roast Long Island duckling raised on the farm right across the street, custardy shrimp and crab quiche, and the perpetual side of buttery mashed turnips (they prepare six tons of it during the Thanksgiving season alone). Sky-high lemon meringue pie ferried by waitresses who've worked here for decades tops off a meal of little fuss and loads of satisfaction. The clincher is a friendly word with co-owner Wanda Wittmeier: At 91, the matriarch still comes to work four hours a day to roll silverware in a front booth and chat.

Modern Snack Bar
628 Main Road
Aquebogue, New York
631/722-3655