Few people outside of Demopolis, a small town in the rural Black Belt region, know about turtlebacks. They're the signature treat of Traeger's bakery, named for the hard cinnamon glaze that glistens like a glossy turtle shell on the surface of each cookie. The beloved local business opened around 1926, back in the days when all of downtown's abandoned storefronts were still occupied. "William Henry Traeger changed trains in Demopolis on his way to Meridian, Mississippi, and saw a bakery for sale. He returned to buy it and spent a lifetime in Demopolis," writes his son and the inventor of the turtleback cookie, William H. Traeger, Jr. in The Heritage of Marengo County (Heritage Publishing Consultants, 2000).