telios Trilirakis is cooking goat on one of the four woodburning stoves outside his restaurant. An hour’s drive on winding mountain roads from the western port city of Chania, the restaurant, Dounias, isn’t easy to find. Nestled in one of the many bends in the road, it sneaks up on you. You know you’re there when you see the smoke coming from the small outdoor ovens, fed by long sticks gathered from his trees that now protrude from the flames like gnarled tongues. Atop the fires are clay pots filled with frying potatoes and long-roasted goat. Trilirakis uses no electricity and cooks with the meat and milk of animals he raises and the vegetables he grows. In addition to sheep and goats, Trilirakis has one of the few cattle farms on the island. His cows are known as gidomouskara, literally “goat beef,” for the goatlike feet that are a necessity on this cliffside terrain.