After more than 100 years of production in Syria, booza has been on the move over the last six years, but for bittersweet reasons. The ice cream’s journey mirrors the migration of millions of Syrians fleeing the ongoing war at home. At the first Bakdash offshoot, across the border in Jordan’s capital, Amman, Jordanian co-owner Yarob Mustafa, 31, is grappling with the right recipe to expand the treat’s range without losing its Syrian identity. This May marked the opening of a seventh branch in Jordan. By October, Mustafa is hoping to open the first store in Baghdad. After that, his sights are set on America; booza shops have already opened in Brooklyn and San Francisco.