I didn't always feel this way. When I first came to San Francisco, I didn’t know what an IT’S-IT was. I was 23 years old and had never been further west than Montana. My first years in San Francisco were a struggle, and I worked any job I could get my hands on just to stay in that magnificent city. I learned to appreciate cheap treats, tiny gifts, small blessings. I don’t remember eating my first IT’S-IT, handed to me, I’m sure, by a friend who probably said, “Screw Rice-A-Roni, this is the real San Francisco treat"—a joke that I’ve now heard a hundred times. But I do remember that they became a staple for me, especially as I told out-of-towners about the many wonders of San Francisco.