But after that, it’s time for thick slabs to go into the pan until they’re the color of copper kitchen pans, to be eaten with fried eggs. Cubes of it are braised in chicken stock, the meaty liquor then poured into a béchamel to make a glorious sauce to bind it all together. Into a casserole dish it goes, under a puff pastry lid, and the world settles comfortably on its axis. And when you get down to the bone, with those barnacles of meat that won’t easily slice away, there is soup to be made, until the ham has given its all. You get the point: The leftovers are why you embark on a major cooking exercise in the first place.