Last year, he opened Wolfgat, a tiny restaurant in a 130-year-old fisherman's shack. Here, he serves a seven-course menu dependent entirely on the strandveld, an Afrikaans word for where the ocean meets terra firma on the Cape. Together with a staff of six locals. ("There's no hierarchy here; we all serve, clean, and cook.") Van der Merwe prepares salt-rich stems and leaves of bushes in the dunes foraged before dawn, lamb and beans grown just inland, and fish drawn up from the Atlantic.