A continuous stream of arigatou gozaimas poured from clerks and deli staff. "Thank you," they said while helping with my purchases, "thank you." I bowed and thanked them back. I was shopping in the grocery-filled basement, or depachika, of the Odakyu Department Store in Tokyo, one of the material wonders of the world, and I wanted to buy everything. Canned sardines, canned matcha, sashimi grade hamachi, Japanese whisky, grilled fish on a stick. The store's stylish opulence was designed to trigger the consumer impulse, as if to say, "Yatte minahare (go for it)!" I almost did. But the standard depachika sells around 30,000 items, and I needed to save room in my luggage during my three-week stay in Japan.