If the fine-dining sommeliers are the Fred Astaires of Tokyo's nightlife, the natural wine bar proprietors are its Serge Gainsbourgs. Yukiyasu Kaneko, lately of Copenhagen's Noma, was telling me about a mutual friend who runs a wine bar in Brooklyn. His eyes sparkled behind chunky plastic frames. The natural wine scene has outposts from Capetown to Shanghai, and its denizens tend to find one another abroad. We were at Le Verre Volé in Meguro; with its chalkboard menus and handwriting on the walls, the cave à manger turned out to be a near replica of the Paris original. Kaneko poured me the 2014 Tsugane chardonnay from Beau Paysage in Yamanashi prefecture. It tasted like an oxidative white from the Jura and paired nicely with thin slices of mackerel and lotus root wheels. Animal Collective blared on the speakers, the natty young creatives downed glass after glass of méthode ancestrale rosé, and Kaneko began doing a compact rhumba behind the bar with Sophia Burger, also from Noma. After polishing off a plate of smoked potatoes the size of hazelnuts swaddled in crème fraîche, tofu, and salmon roe, I briefly considered dancing, too.