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SERVES 2

O-a-chian

This version of a classic Tainan snack comes from Cheng Lee Chin-o, housewife and entrepreneur. She uses Chinese celery, which is stronger in flavor than ordinary celery; if you do too, use half as much as the amount given for celery below.

1/4 cup ketchup
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/4 cup plus 1/2 tsp. sweet potato flour
1 tsp. Chinese dark soy sauce
10–12 shucked small oysters
2 eggs
2 tbsp. lard
2 tbsp. finely chopped celery
2 stems (without leaves) cilantro, chopped
2 cups mung bean sprouts, heads and tails trimmed
1 scallion, white part only, trimmed and chopped
Freshly ground white pepper

1. Put ketchup, garlic, 1/2 tsp. of the sweet  potato flour, 1/2 tsp. of the soy sauce, and 1/2 cup water into a small pot and stir until flour dissolves. Cook sauce over medium-high heat, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Keep sauce warm over lowest heat.

2. Put oysters into a medium bowl and toss with 2 tbsp. of the sweet potato flour. Rinse oysters under cold running water, drain, and pat dry with paper towels. Put oysters into a clean dry medium bowl, toss with remaining sweet potato flour, and set aside. Lightly beat eggs and remaining soy sauce together in a small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat lard in a wok over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add oysters, celery, and cilantro stems and stir-fry until celery is just tender, about 30 seconds. Add bean sprouts and 2 tsp. water and stir-fry until sprouts are translucent, about 1 minute.

4. Stir in scallions, then pour eggs over oysters and vegetables, cover wok, and cook until eggs are just set, about 15 seconds. Season to taste with pepper. Divide between 2 plates and serve with sauce.

This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #73