Spring training takes place every year at Marsha Dick's house. Not for baseball, for Passover. According to Marsha, practice is what separates the pros from the rookies, and so a month or so before the big night, when 20-odd guests would arrive for the seder, she found herself focusing on one "problem" dish. One year it was chicken, the usual main course. The version she'd been serving for years, she'd decided, just wasn't "pretty or elegant enough."