I'm crazy about sweets, especially homespun varieties that predate the era of high-fructose corn syrup. Last year, on a road trip from New York City to Austin, Texas, my boyfriend, Armando, and I made it a point to visit a number of legendary confectioneries and dessert spots along the way, places where candies, ices, pies, and other treats are made in much the same manner they were a century ago. Our first stop was the Franklin Fountain (116 Market Street, Philadelphia; 215/627-1899), in the Old City neighborhood of Philadelphia. The retro ice cream parlor, with its pressed-tin ceilings and marble countertops, dispenses house-made ice cream in flavors like teaberry gum, licorice, and mint chip, the last of which is run through with whorls of creme de menthe. We adored the phosphates—old-timey hand-mixed sodas with a hint of tanginess thanks to the addition of a few drops of phosphoric acid—especially the Egyptienne Egg Shake, a combination of orange and rose syrups, soda water, Angostura bitters, and a whole egg.