One of the town's more celebrated residents is Sean Thackrey, who is not a farmer but a winemaker. Thackrey moved to Bolinas in 1963, at first working as an editor for a textbook publisher. In 1970, he opened a gallery in San Francisco, exhibiting 19th- and 20th-century European photographs and graphics. He loved wine as much as art, though, and ten years later, still in Bolinas, he launched a specialized one-man winery that now produces several thousand cases of wine a year from old-vine syrah, petite sirah, and mourvedre grapes. He buys the fruit in various parts of California and trucks it home. After creating his wines, he stores some of them in barrels outside, letting the cold ocean winds provide natural refrigeration. He obviously knows what he's doing, since his wines, fancifully named after constellations (Pleiades and Orion are two of them), have won high praise from critics. They tend to be big, dark, and complicated. "They're like small children," Thackrey says. "They aren't always pretty and well behaved."