Travel

Travel Guide: Maghrébin Paris

Where to eat and what to do while visiting the Morrocan, Algerian and Tunisian sections of Paris

By Jay Cheshes


Published on November 13, 2012

Dinner for two with drinks and tip Inexpensive: Under $20; Moderate: $20-$80; Expensive Over $80

WHERE TO EAT

1 Chez Rene et Gabin
92 Boulevard de Belleville, 20th arrondissement (33/1/4358-7814). Inexpensive. The overstuffed tuna fish sandwich called casse-croute is the specialty of this Jewish-Tunisian neighborhood joint.

2 Dar-el-Houma
47 Boulevard de la Chapelle, 10th arrondissement (33/1/5692-1848). Inexpensive. Order the superb rechta, a holiday meal of noodles with chicken and turnips, at this homey Algerian restaurant.

3 Le Timgad
21 Rue Brunel, 17th arrondissement (33/1/45/74-23-70, timgad.fr). Expensive. Since 1971, this posh Moroccan restaurant has been a draw for its exceptional renditions of couscous and tagines, served by waiters in black tie.

4 Mansouria
11 Rue Faidherbe, 11th arrondissement (33/1/4371-0016, mansouria.fr). Moderate. Fatema Hal's authentic Moroccan restaurant features many hard-to-find dishes based on recipes culled from research trips to her home country.

5 Mediterranee Alimentation
30 Rue de la Charbonniere, 18th arrondissement (33/1/4262-6455). Inexpensive. This maghrebin grocery store on the edge of the Barbes-Rochechouart market offers fine Algerian crepes called mahjouba, made to order.

WHAT TO DO

6 La Bague de Kenza
106 Rue Saint-Maur, 11th arrondissement (33/1/4314-9315, labaguede.kenza.free.fr). The most acclaimed Algerian bakery, with many Paris locations, specializes in honey-drenched confections that are as delicious as they are beautiful.

7 Barbes-Rochechouart Market
18th arrondissement (no phone). Look for spices, olives, produce, fish, meat, and much more at this massive outdoor market, on Wednesdays and Saturdays under the Barbes-Rochechouart Metro.

8 El Andalousia
25 Rue de la Goutte d'Or, 18th arrondissement (33/1/4251-1925). This little Algerian bakery is a destination for both sweet and savory treats, such as les roses, filo-dough blossoms filled with a paste of walnuts, hazelnuts, and almonds.

9 Nani
102 Boulevard de Belleville, 20th arrondissement (33/1/4797-3805). This venerable kosher bakery, founded in 1962, specializes in honey-soaked boules de miel and other Tunisian pastries.

Read the article Couscous Royale: Maghrebin Paris »

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