The Guide: Marajó
Ferries to Marajo leave from Warehouse 10 dock in the city of Belem twice daily during the week, arriving three hours later at Porto Camara in the town of Salvaterra (55/91/3242-1870 and 55/91/3212-0785). Buses and taxis run between Salvaterra and the main Marajoaran town of Soure.
Where to Stay
Rodovia Soure-Pesqueiro, Km 3, Soure
A guesthouse run by Jeronima and Raimundo Brito in the jungle outside of Soure. The rooms are simple and comfortable, the home cooking is terrific, and trails running through mangroves, beaches, and jungle make it easy to explore on foot.
Where to Eat
Delicias da Nalva
Quarta Rua Macaxeira 1051, Soure
Locally renowned cook Nalva Barbosa runs this restaurant out of her home, where she makes classic Marajoaran dishes like frito do vaqueiro (fried buffalo steak in buffalo milk gravy) and casquinhos de caranguejo (stuffed crabs).
Ilha Bela Pousada e Restaurante
Primeira Rua, com Travessa 13, Centro, Soure
Senhor Niel and Dona Bianca serve terrific home-style cooking—caranguejo (crab soup), buffalo steak topped with melted buffalo cheese—at this rustic inn.
Peixaria do Sales
Praia Joanes, Salvaterra
55/91/3646-2172 or 55/91/3207-0113
This beachside restaurant serves excellent seafood dishes like caldeiradas de peixe (Portuguese-style fish stew with boiled eggs, shrimp, and potatoes) and moqueca (cilantro-laced fish stew made with palm oil and coconut milk).