Da Ping Huo
49 Hollywood Road, SoHo, Western, Hong Kong (852/2559-1317). When Wang Sui King and her husband, Wang Hai, first opened this Sichuanese restaurant in the Western district in the early 1990s, it was Hong Kong's first "private kitchen," unlicensed and open only to friends and people in the know. These days, private kitchens flourish all over the city, but Ms. Wang's cooking still draws so many people that to get a reservation for one of her twice-nightly prix fixe dinners you have to book more than a month in advance. The dishes change each night, but there are generally nine courses, which alternate between mild and spicy, the latter courses becoming hotter and hotter until everyone in the restaurant is giddy from the rush of endorphins and the complex, addictive flavors of the food.