Not surprisingly, the culinary specialties of the Cerdanya tend to be rich and often wild in provenance: plenty of stewed or roasted partridge and other game birds; boar, mountain goat, and venison; and wild mushrooms, herbs, and fruits. Also common are pates and terrines and hearty main-course soups like ouillade, the local version of the rich meat-and-vegetable concoction eaten in some form or other all across the Pyrenees. Massot's menus, though, define heartiness with a certain refinement. Our meal on this occasion began with homemade pate on a bed of mache, followed by a salad, and proceeded to a delicious free-range chicken in a lightly creamy gravy laced with rossinyolics—a kind of chanterelle also known as camagroc, or yellowleg. (Other nights, the main dish might be something like roast veal with cepes and banyuls or, at Christmastime, capon stuffed with morels.) We concluded with a cheese selection—ranging from the local tomme and a chevre from Mas Paturas, a nearby goat dairy farm, to classic brie, gruyere, and roquefort—and then a tart of Cerdanya apples. Pitchers of young red wine from the Roussillon, at the eastern end of the French Pyrenees, and plenty of spring water irrigated our feast.